Samsung defines the 4C group, which includes 4E and nF, as a not filling error: water is not entering the washer correctly. The control opened the inlet valves, waited for the pressure sensor to report a rising level, and gave up. The washer cannot tell you why. It could be a closed tap, a pinched hose, a blocked screen, a slow supply or a valve that did not open. The order below goes from the most common and cheapest to the one that needs a technician, and each step is written so that it is safe to do in the order given.
Are Both Taps Fully Open?
Look before you touch. Behind or beside the washer there are two supply taps, hot and cold. A tap that was turned off during a move or a plumbing job and only half reopened will fill so slowly that the control times out. Open both fully. If your washer sits on a pedestal or in a closet where the taps are hard to see, use a torch rather than assuming.
The Hot and Cold Variant
Samsung lists a second group, 4C2, 4E2, CE and nF1, with a different meaning: water reaching the cold inlet is extremely hot. That happens when the hoses were connected the wrong way round, or when a hot-water recirculation loop feeds the cold line. If you see one of those, the fix is the connection, not the fill valve, and it is checked with the taps closed.
Hoses and Inlet Screens
With both taps closed and the washer switched off, pull the machine forward far enough to reach the back. Check each hose for a kink, especially where it bends behind the cabinet. Then, holding a towel under the connection, unscrew one hose at the washer end and look inside the inlet on the washer: there is a small mesh screen in each. Sediment, sand after a water main repair or scale from a hard supply collects there and throttles the fill. Lift the screen out gently with a fingertip or a pair of pliers, rinse it under a tap, and refit it flat before screwing the hose back on hand-tight. Do the second hose the same way. Open both taps and check the connections for drips before you push the washer back.
Supply Pressure
A washer needs a certain flow to fill in the time the control allows, and a house on a well, a home with a failing pressure regulator, or a supply shared with a running irrigation zone can fall below it. If the kitchen tap runs weakly at the same time the washer reports 4C, the problem is the supply and the washer is only the messenger.
What the Valve and Sensor Look Like From Inside
If the taps are open, the hoses straight, the screens clean and the supply strong, and 4C still appears within a minute of starting a cycle, the problem is inside: an inlet valve whose solenoid does not open, a pressure sensor or its air hose that never reports the level rising, or wiring between them. All of those sit behind the top or rear panel beside the mains connections, and testing them is the technician’s job. Unplugging the washer for a minute and trying again is worth one attempt, since a control that lost track during a power dip may recover; if the code returns, the attempt has told you it is a real problem.
Not Filling Versus Filling Slowly
A washer that fills but takes far longer than it used to is on its way to a 4C and can be caught early with the screen check above. A washer that fills normally on cold but shows 4C on a hot cycle points at the hot tap or hot hose alone. Note which cycle triggers the code; it narrows the search. When you book a Samsung washer repair, tell us whether the drum was dry or partly filled when the code appeared and which of the checks above you have already done.